Відео

I just saw your video. Hopefully you have it fixed by now. I was going to suggest an air leak at the carb boot, bad cdi or faulty reverse switch on the left handlebar.

when you replaced the head unit in the dash, how did you program it?

That's super slow

@josephvollmar what size blind hole puller did you use to pull the old bushing out? And where did you buy it from? Also I’m in Arnold MO and interested in you doing this service for my 2010 fusion. Could you DM?

yes car tire 🤘 , that tall tire made a huuuge difference 😊😊

It is a 90 Degree Bevel Drive...a Differential is for a Pair of Driving Wheels.

PSR makes aftermarket kickstands for those bikes that have lowering links installed. I have one on my 2003 CBR 600rr.

I have a 2016 2m4 and I took the tensioner out before setting TDC and now I'm not sure how to get it back to TDC ?

Good job

I wish mechanics would use better English than "tear" apart. For example, one doesn't "tear" apart the axle. Paper can be torn, clothing can be torn. You cannot "tear down" an engine. What is happening is it is being "unbolted" or "dismantled." I believe the word "tear" was engineered to psychologically scare car owners because nothing is being "teared/torn". That said. Anyone know where the list of TSBs can be found? In 2001 the internet was easy and I could easily find the list to print out with my first car. The Fusion is my second car and I didn't think much about it until now.

So fire up the air compressor while you talk, annoying!

very informative thank you

omg those moronic anus engineers @ ford have really done it this time that atf is expensive And the idiots make the internal filter inaccessible unless you pull the casing apart for a rebuild i've found an aftermarket inline spin on filter kit it's just aggravating that these guys didn't have the foresight to incorporate a spin on filter into the casing just a bad design that costs people thousands to get fixed or replaced and they knew that was going to be the case reminds me of Boeings cargo door on the 747 that actually cost lives really makes me mad whatever happened to American Quality??????

Great video

Couldn't see a thing

What about rear wheel bearings for 98 DeVille

Hey , find might have a design problem . Just pulled that piece out of my blower this morning . Turn on ac and the racket . Dropped fan and there it was .

Nice job

Ive got a 2012 Fusion, thats got this same problem. I spent 2 days attempting to get the CV axle out of the transmission, had al sorts of different tools, and even a slide hammer. Just could not get the axle out of the transmission. gave up after 2 days, put it back together and said screw this...I will have to just keep putting fluid in. Im going to be getting rid of the car instead...its 12 years old, with 251000 miles on it...

Thanks very helpful

Video is not helpful at all

So what the modern ultra low sulfur diesel being lower in lubricity makes them eat the dust sooner than later.

What he didnt show is how get to the nut behind the electric motor to losing the nut to raise the window you remove the 2 screws remove cover pull the shaft out use a size 10 wrench and loosen it is easier to get to

Great job,,I feel your pain,,Have one flooding gas coming out donut exhaust, changed carbs 3 times same thing cam is good rockers good valve lash is good plugs good ,deactivated kill switch. gas in the oil, wtf?

I’m having trouble popping the slave master cylinder back into the fire wall. It seems to go in but I can’t rotate it to lock it. Any tips?

Hey how you on my 07 g5 2.2 ecotec when i check for spark on each cyclinder with sparktester everyone shows spark but cyclinder 2 is this a timing issue? Repaced plugs,coils,fuelinjectors,etc still shows no spark on 2 cant figure out why?

What ever happened to this deal?

Where did you buy it ? Please tell me.

Exactly the same issue, awesome and thanks, I made my son do it 😅 quiet again 👍

My fleet has 20 ford escape hybrids. 3 of the 20 transmission failed and they failed when my drivers were on the road....

Love your video! I wasn’t sure how much oil to put in. Also, I got a package of trimmer line that had a little plastic cutter attached. I JB welded that cutter onto my weed eater, and now I’m never without a way to cut new line. Just thought I share a tip with you. Thanks again!

Why the hell you don’t know what wrench or socket to use?😂😂😂😂😂

How do you change the blade?

Hello! Great video! I was just wondering if the blower motor ever gave you the issue of it not turning off even with the vehicle off. I also own a 2005 GMC Yukon SLT 4.8l and I already replaced the resistor for the second time but it still keeps running so I am left having to pull the fuse when the Yukon isn't gonna be used. Any tips you can give me?

I couldn’t believe it when I saw you pull that fingernail shape object out, the same exact thing happened to me, and I was fretting about it. Thanks for leaving that in your video and explaining.

Is the ford fusion SE 2012 automatic transmission a CVT transmission???

Thanks for video.

Done a great job.

Gave you a 👍 even though the music was ANNOYING AS HECK, kept having to turn the volume off, BUT thanks much for producing such, gives me a perspective on whether or not to attempt myself and what to expect as far as a cost parts + labor

So is that belt ONLY for the AC ?? Can that belt be replaced without removing anything?

Where did you get the large channel type pliers at?

My chock lever will not stay in place! How do a person change out the chock lever for a 324L Husqvarna weed trimmer. Can't find any UA-cam videos to fix this problem. Local repair shop told me, "Yeah, this a pretty common chock problem with Husqvarna weed trimmer & we can fix it for $50." Please address this issue.

One of the videos man! Thank you.

I see it been awhile since you uploaded this video. How durable are these lights cause I'm gonna use them as fog lights.

I bought this for the Sander and I can't seem to get the sander to move, there's noise when I turn it on but that's it. I can't seem to find any videos on using the sander? can you do a demo of that?

Would it not make more sense to flush some water in there after the initial vacuuming, break up the residual lime and suck that out and repeat it a few times?

I've owned many many of the automobiles with this exact system in them and found that it's best to just replace both the motor and the resistor as one can cause the other to go bad after you replace the one that tests as bad. Just sayin'. And most of the time if you look at the connector going into the resistor you will see they are slightly dark or even burnt. Pull the plug out of the resistor and look at the connections. I find they are burnt most of the time.

I just replaced the entire thing. Don't need to break it apart on the 1999 F-350 7.3 diesel. It is already full of fluid, no need or good way for that matter to bleed it. No bleed zerts anyway. Just unplug it from the tranny by twisting it out in the reverse of install about a 1/4 turn (a monkey wrench is good for this) . Twist out the master from the firewall, easier said than done, then under the dash be very careful. Detach the metal shaft from the clutch pedal but hang on to it or it will fly back and but you in the face. Then detach the plastic shaft carrier and carefully remove the plastic key that runs the length of the electrical carrier and open it but don't take it apart. This is much harder than I thought because I could only work with one hand. after disassembly the kit comes with a new shaft to snap onto the clutch pedal ball. Locking the master cylinder into the firewall is about a 1/4 turn but align the small protrusion at the bottom when rolled in. Again about a 1/4 turn but I found it a PITA because of Firewall crap. I did get it turned in then went back under the dash to install the shaft and electrical carrier. Again easier said than done. You will notice that the small protrusion in the master that is now inside under the dash fits into the slot in the bottom front of the electrical carrier. That way you know it is in the correct place. Instantly you will notice a change in the clutch pressure. Remember the slave cylinder with the plastic cover and two plastic extensions holding it in place before shoving it into the bell housing? You leave that on there and the first time you depress the clutch those two plastic snaps break and you are good to go. Next time I will use a lift or jack, but this truck would not move. Real tight under there. Good luck. BTW, this was replaced by Ford about 5 years ago when the trans was replaced with not that many miles on it. It's about a $700 dollar job, so you can save some money with some patience. Parts kits run $200 to $270 roughly. I think we got ours at NAPA.

Clear hose is a clever idea. Thanks for sharing.

I just got my fan off after a tool run, you will need a small ratchet wrench. What shocks me is I have the same exact piece of plastic in my fan, exact. Thanks a ton for the video much appreciated.